Realejo

The best tapas neighborhood with a young, creative vibe. Safer and more local than the tourist center, still walkable to the main sights. Good area for eating alone at bar counters where that's the norm.

Realejo is the old Jewish quarter below the Alhambra. This is where you'll find the best tapas without the Plaza Nueva tourist crowds. Street art on the walls, independent cafes in the squares, mostly locals. You'll see university students at laptops in Noat Coffee, people grabbing lunch at tapas bars on Calle Molinos, families with strollers in the plazas. Many bars have counter seating where people eat alone and chat with bartenders - it's normal. The area stays busy until late with decent lighting and foot traffic, feels safe at night. Because the restaurants here serve locals who know good food, the free tapas are actually worth eating, not just token gestures. You can walk to the Alhambra and Cathedral, but you're far enough from the tourist center that it feels like a real neighborhood. Young professionals and students live here, which keeps things lively day and evening.